Ethiopia Bahir Dar Boat Trip, Beta Mariam Church
Ethiopian Orthodox Church Murals on Historic Lake Tana Boat Trip
Aug 30, 2009
The shores and islands of Lake Tana, the largest lake in Ethiopia and source of the Blue Nile, are home to around two dozen world-famous Ethiopian Orthodox sites . Some of these churches and monasteries date back four centuries. Their inner walls are decorated to the rafters with fascinating religious scenes from the Old and New Testaments, with vividly imaginative exploits of their patron saints intermingled with demons, strange beasts and legendary heroes.
Murals like these, in a style once common in medieval Europe, are now rarely to found outside Ethiopia. The Beta Mariam site has a lively selection of murals but differs from the other churches in three respects:
- It is on the Zege peninsula at the south-western end of Lake Tana, rather than on an island.
- The roof is thatched, while most of the other churches have had their thatch replaced by modern metal sheets.
- The present structure dates only from the 19th century.
Consequently, Beta Mariam would not satisfy a true specialist looking for original 16th century Ethiopian religious art and construction, but its lively murals show how the tradition has continued until the present day.
Options for Getting to the Church of Beta Maryam
- Most visitors prefer to take a boat trip (90 minutes one way) because this is also an opportunity to experience Lake Tana’s full scenic beauty and bird life.
- Since Beta Mariam is on a peninsula, it can be reached by road. This could take 30 minutes to one hour, depending on the state of the road (generally poor), but it provides an option for bad sailors wanting to see a ‘lake church’, or when the weather is not suitable for a boat trip.
Arriving at Beta Mariam
From the boat, there is a wooden landing and a short walk through coffee and lemon groves. An entrance fee (around US$3) is collected and a priest who is agreeable to being photographed (but not touched) will accompany visitors. An English-speaking guide is also available if visitors arrive without one. The atmosphere is very courteous and calm – note the sign cautioning ‘No high laughing’.
Inside, the church floor is bamboo covered in ox hides and carpets. The priest and guide will describe a typical service, demonstrate how the prayer sticks, musical instruments and other items are used and explain the murals. Many are familiar - the Last Judgment, scenes from the life of Christ and Mary (the church’s main patron), St George, various angels and saints with haloes round their ‘afros’, and a good deal of comically bloodthirsty slaying and smiting. Features of Lake Tana can be clearly seen in ‘Christ Calming the Waters’ and ‘The Miraculous Draft of Fishes’.
Most of the elements found in the older churches are on display, including vestments and typically Ethiopian ornate umbrellas used by the clergy.
Other Features of a Visit to Beta Mariam
Allow about one hour for the church and the little treasury of precious illuminated manuscripts and vestments. Add 30 minutes to soak up the tranquil atmosphere and see coffee beans drying, check out the fairly discreet small stalls of locally made religious-themed silver jewellery and carvings, and the tankwa or traditional reed boat, with models of them made by the children. In season, lemons (great for cheering up bottled drinks) can also be brought.
Checks Advisable for Independent Boat Travel on Lake Tana
- Are there enough life jackets? The weather can change suddenly and the lake could get quite choppy.
- Does the price include the return?
- What is the entry fee for the church/monastery, and the length of the stop on the island?
- Establish the time of return to Bahir Dar by writing it down.
For the non-specialist visitor, and especially for those with limited time, a half-day visit to Beta Mariam provides both a fascinating glimpse into a lost world of medieval religiosity, and a scenic boat trip on historic Lake Tana, source of the Blue Nile.
For more information: Off-Road Ethiopia Tour
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